Indian Ladies expedition to Mamostong Kangri, 1992

The Alpine Journal vol. 98, 1993

Harish Kapadia

India 1992

Eastern Karakoram

Mamostong Kangri (7516m) This high peak continues to attract climbing teams. An Indian ladies team (all members of a pre-Everest expedition sponsored by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation – training for the 1993 Indo-Nepal Women's expedition to Everest) climbed the normal route from the Mamostong glacier. Fifteen climbers were successful in three groups. They left Delhi on 30 June, set up base camp on 24 July and all summited on 15 August.

Climbs and Expeditions, 1992

The American Alpine Journal vol. 35, 1993

India – Eastern Karakoram

Mamostong Kangri. This high peak continues to attract climbing teams. An Indian ladies’ team, led by Bachendri Pal, climbed the normal route from the Mamostong Glacier, crossing the 5885-meter Mamostong col and up the east ridge. The summit (7516 meters, 24,650 feet) was reached from Camp IV at 6700 meters by 15 climbers, all on August 15, in three groups. The first summit party consisting of Deepu Sharma, Kunga Bhutia, Anita Devi and Harsha Panwar was accompanied by instructor Rajeev Sharma and Sherpas Kushang and Nadre. They reached the top at one P.M. Sarla Negi, Radha Devi, Dickey Dolma, Bimla Negi and instructor Baldev Kanwar got to the summit at two P.M. Suman Kutiyal and Savita Martolia summited at 2:30 P.M. with porter Vijay Singh. A fourth attempt was thwarted by bad weather. The All-Women Pre-Everest Expedition had 17 members and a doctor. This is the second expedition in preparation for the 1993 lndo-Nepalese Women's Expedition to Everest.

Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal

Indo-Nepalese Women's Everest Expedition – 1993
Eighteen summits by Bachendri Pal

Tata Steel Adventure Foundation

Out of the 34 Women of the first selection expedition, the team was pruned to 17 of the better climbers for the second Pre-Everest Selection Expedition to Mt. Mamostang Kangri (24626 ft.) in 1992. Here too we had to plan, organise, conduct and lead from start to finish. There was lot of initial problems to be over e.g. funds, transport, release of required Instructors and Doctors. This made us even more determined. A carefully planned acclimatization at Leh enabled us to climb stock Kangri and settle various problems. However, my niece Seema Tolia who joined the Expedition straight from her college in Dehradun, having a slight cough, developed chest infection in Leh and had to be sent back because we had no Doctor to give timely help. I was extremely sad. She had done a few expeditions with me and I found her to acclimatise well at high altitude. She was a promising climber having performed extremely well on Mt. Kamet. Anyway, the expedition otherwise progressed in a well planned way. Mr. R. K. Singh, Director (G) in the Ministry of Defence who was very helpful since our first Pre-Everest Expedition, when approached, released one lady Doctor from the Services.

She ultimately joined us at Base Camp to our great relief not only physically but psychologically as well. One by one we overcame the challenges. The new strategy for the Summit was tried gain. High up from Camp IV (22000 ft.) where I was perched, the team was encouraged to go for the Summit and they did. 15 members in all including 10 women climbed the peak on August 15, 1992. This was the first ascent to Mamostang Kangri by women.