Border Security Force expedition to Mamostong Kangri, 1990

Climbs and Expeditions, 1990

The American Alpine Journal vol. 33, 1991

Mamostong Kangri and P 6448. A 31 member team of the Border Security Force was led by S.C. Negi. The roadhead at Sasoma was reached on July 18. Base Camp at Skyangpoche beyond Saser Nala, Camp I on the moraine and Advance Base were set up at 4575, 4875 and 5485 meters on July 21, 27 and 31. Hope Col (5885 meters) was crossed to the Thangman Glacier with fixed ropes. Camp III was placed on August 6 at the base of the Mamostong Glacier at 5790 meters. Despite hostile weather, the summit team set up Summit Camp at 6600 meters on August 9 and fixed 300 meters of rope above it. After bad weather, Camp III was again occupied and 200 meters more of rope were fixed on August 19. The summit team left camp at five A.M. on August 20. The summit (7524 meters, 24,686 feet) was gained at six P.M. by Jumma Khan, Jamuna Prasad, M.P. Sharma, Dharam Singh and Jagat Singh. Because of poor visibility, they bivouacked on the descent at 7250 meters. On August 24, virgin P 6448 (21,156 feet), adjoining Mamostong, was climbed by T. Dorje, S. Gombu, Madan Lal, S. Lotus, L. Negi, Kalam Singh, Kuldip Singh and S.D. Thomas.

Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India